Tour Plan

Have decide on a rough tour plan for Vienna. Going to waltz out to Baden one day. Baden is a 'Spa' town and from the Centre of Vienna there is an Interurban tram which goes all they way to Baden through the streets of Vienna and countryside, its the type of short trip I love. You get a chance to see where the Vienese live and see some of the countryside and if you wish can get off mid journey if you se an interesting place or wish to take a photograph. I am sure there will be lots to see in Baden, cafes and restaurants to while away an afternoon. There are still hot baths/springs available as well.
Another day there is a trip to 2 Old Towns. Take the train to Melk and then a boat trip along the Danube (I think) to Krems and later home by train.
Another day its of up the hills above Vienna by tram 38 to Grinzing, where there are many restaurants and cafes and shops. A further bus up the hills bring you to a viewing position where you can get a great view of the city below. Last time we found an old fashioned little restaurant with marvellous views of Vienna. Mum really liked it and me also. I mentioned it before but Mums old friend Sheila would have love it and I think our Dad would have gone there every day if he ever had visited. Probably a bit old fashioned and not to everyones taste but the food was good, not that expensive considering the view and the fact that Vienna isnt a cheap city. I think it was only about ten or fifteen Euro for something to eat and a glass of vino. Back in Ireland if theres a nice view and they build a Cafe you will definately find a huge premium is put on the fact that you have a view while you dine.

Probably try a visit to see some music and also a visit to some of Viennas famous Cafes.
Photo of the Restaurant with a view. The cafe is called Cafe Cobenzl. Reading their website the whole area was built up as long ago as 1800, there has been several rebuildings after various wars and the present cafe dates back only to 1980 and was built deliberately old fashioned. http://www.cobenzl.com/

Vienna 2009

Spent most of Christmas looking around at possible holidays. Usually go to the 'List' of places still to visit or go back to. Anyhow eventually a combination of easy flights at the right price and decent weather in April lead to a return to Vienna. Previously we flew to Bratislava or Vienna as RyanAir seem to think it is. And then an enjoyable bus to the outskirts of Vienna. This year getting a direct flight to the real Vienna Airport. Found great rooms in the Mozart Hotel near the very centre of Vienna. For once the Hotel is in some of the Travel Guides as being a good 3 star Hotel. Dont imagine Mozart ever visited but according to one guide the American Army stayed there during the WW2 bash.
Random photograph from the last trip to Vienna.

Around the World in Nine Years

Olivia and Pat Murphy set off in 1999 in their 41ft Sloop called Aldebaran. I worked with Olivia in the Irish Red Cross. They set off in 1999 and crossed the Atlantic. They spent quite some time cruising the Caribbean, visiting the Islands and kept sending back reports of their adventures. After about a year they passed through the Panama canal, visiting the Galapagos and many other islands on the way to New Zealand. During the years They both returned to Ireland for Weddings, Births and to catch up with friends. They also spent quite a long time in Australia in a camper van. Their trip continued along Indonesia, Singapore, Malasia and Thailand. In 2007 they made the perilous passage from Thailand to Turkey via “Pirate Alley” in the Gulf of Aden, the Red Sea and the Suez Canal. They finally arrived back in Ireland late this Summer.
They have their own website www.patandolivia.com

Cafe in Lisbon

There are so many cafes in Lisbon, so much choice from fresh fish restaurants, cafes selling home made soup for 60 cent, Portugal also has their own local versions of MacDonalds with local meals and a drink and a dessert for really good prices, about 6.00 Euro I think. Above the Baixa Chaido Metro station there was 4 floors of small cafes and restaurants both local and american types to please all tastes and budgets. On the first night we arrived quite late so stumbled upon the centre over the Metro station, The local cafe was a tiny bit like McDonalds but much better food and offered beer and wine included in the meal. Cafe was also spotless as seemed most cafes in Lisbon. The Santa Justa Elevator is a smaller version of the Eiffel Tower with excellent views of the City and also has a little Cafe serving snacks and drinks. Thats about it for 2008, have started looking for new places to go in 2009. Also hope to get a few more Family stories but awaiting input from family historian.

December 2008 Lisbon

Went to Lisbon last year but returned again, its a good place to visit in Winter or anytime. We visited mainly the same places. We went on a boat trip across to Cahicas and got another boat back to Belem. Went to Sintra, this time went to to historic area, it was mainly full of shops and cafes. The castle is Sintra is up a very steep hill and simply too many steps there. So gave it a miss this year. On Sunday we discovered there is a Parade of Horseguards in Belem, unfortunately it was finishing just as we arrived.

Views of Lisbon

Famous Cafe in Lisbon, and night time photo of the castle overlooking Lisbon.

Lisbon II

Going back to Lisbon in November. Have seen many interesting places in Lisbon but you can always find something interesting and new places when you return to a city. Staying quite central but not in the same Hotel as before. Last year stayed in a very central and cheap Hotel but decided to pay extra and try elsewhere. The offer of free wireless internet clinched it for me. Mum is still recovering from her Knee Op so Lisbon is a good choice for easy transport links and we know the area from previous visits.

Last year went on a ferry to the other side of the river to Cahicas, and hope to go again, plenty to see there and loads of fish restaurants and old cafes. Might get a ferry back to Belem, a town about 3 km from Central Lisbon and full of Restaurants, cafes and several Museums. Hope to go back to Sintra, plenty to see and do there and plenty of shops selling all kinds of Christmas tat and cheap presents. Mum loves those shops and brings back loads of crap. I got presents in Sintra for some friends last year so I hope they ant reading this.

Hope to try some new Restaurants and return to one we enjoyed last time.

Travel Mistakes

I always do loads of planning before booking any trips. Not all plans work out. For the last trip thought it be a good idea to stay in Mestre, near Venice, Italy. Deliberately looked for a Hotel near the railway for ease of travel. Looked up 'trip advisor' which is a usually very good source. The 'Club' Hotel was supposed to be about 100 metres from the railway. Actual distance is 1.5 km and the Hotel itself doesn't claim to be 100m away. The Hotel however fails to mention the fact that it is completely isolated from the town and at night there is only one Trattoria or Cafe. I knew in advance that trattoria was poor as I had read several reviews saying to avoid. Run by an Italian cousin of Basil Fawlty, he is or was too busy laying out tables to take orders and he made us wait 30 minutes before coming over to take our order. Another 30 minutes our meals arrived. Not really bad but it all tasted like it was heated up and not fresh and of course expensive. Most evenings we avoided it except to buy an ice cream or a take away coffee.
I did walk one evening to see how long it took back to civilization. It did take about 30 minutes including a walk under a motorway through an underpass full of grafetti and unmentionable smells.
Another long held plan was to go to Trieste on Train and apart from visiting the sights go up to the hill above Trieste to Opicina via the Funicular Tram. Unfortunately following an expensive overhaul the tram has suffered numerous breakdowns and runaways so has been closed for repairs. It looks as if the money spent was mainly wasted and apparently the inferior cables installed have completely broken down. Instead we got a bus which took us along a similar route to Opicina. Even finding the tram initially was difficult as the sign posts point you in the wrong direction. Possibly 'they' do not want you to find it and hope to close it down due to lack of patronage. A local Bus driver was very helpful and told us where to go for the replacement bus service and told us to enjoy our holiday. So not all service workers went to the Basil Fawlty School of Charm. 'We' had a similar Tram in Ireland serving the Hill of Howth, it closed down before I was born as there was no money to renovate it despite it being a tourist attraction.

Extra. One week later after visit to Trieste the tramway re opened! Bad timing?

Venice

After London was time to return to Italy. Booked to stay in Mestre and planned to go to nearby Venice and other cities. On the first night arrived at Marco Polo Airport. We were sold the wrong tickets at Airport for a non existant bus service, so along with others got on another Bus going to Mestre. Luckily Italian Bus companies rarely send inspectors. Anyhow arriving in Mestre holding the directions to the hotel, we eventually decided to get a taxi. Turned out the directions were completly wrong and the Hotel had mysteriously moved 1.2 km further along the road. The only real bad point of the hols was the difficulty getting buses back to the hotel and we eventually gave up and got a taxi. We did all the main Islands of Venice, Burano, Murano and Lido. Also spent a pleasant day in Trieste which was about 160 km away on a train journey. We also 'did' Padua and Treviso. Unfortunately on the final day it rained and thundered all day so we just went early to the Airport and waited and waited and waited.

London

Went over to London for a few days. Seem to always do the same things and visit same places. Visited a few new places this time. having rad a magazine article I paid a visit to a couple of 1950's style Italian Cafes, 1 in Bethnal Green and the other near Fulham Football Ground. the one in Bethnal Green , E. Pellicci has been listed by the local council planners. Inside the Interior is decked out in Wood Marketry and hasnt changed in 50 years. The food is all 'greasy Spoon' type but cooked just right. Also full of locals chatting like a real life version of 'Eastenders'
. http://www.classiccafes.co.uk/Pelliccifeature.htm
The other cafe the Riverside Cafe is right outside the bus station and Tube at Fulham. Again well worth a visit for the food the decor and athmosphere. If your going to a city for a second or third visit its well worth researching more unusual things to do. Another cafe well worth a visit is the Ace Cafe. Its a modern version of a 50's 'Transport' cafe where car and biker nuts meets ever night.

Nice in Nice

Never been to Nice or that part of France but Mum went there many times with Dad years ago. Having found the usual goodish deal on flights also got a good deal on Hotel as well and near the main street in Central Nice. Nothing really wrong with the accomodation except the french obsession with never painting rooms or replacing carpets until completly worn out. However it was very central right beside the new Tram and train stations. You could probably spend more time in Nice but me and Mum planned a few trips to Cannes, Grasse, Monaco and up the mountains to Tende. On the flight over from Dublin there was some delay landing so we circled the general area several times and one of the Air Stewards gave us a running commentary and also telling us how lucky we all were to be staying in Nice and to enjoy the cuisine.
Never been one for expensive meals but in Nice there is no shortage of reasonable Restaurants and there were at least 20 such right beside our Hotel. On The first night we went past a small Restaurant that was fairly packed unlike most in the area and decoded to try it the next night. The meals were nearly all a set meal, starter, main course and dessert. Wine was extra. Amazingly the food and drink was less than 20 euro each and have to say it was the freshest and best meal I have had for years. The next night that Restaurant was closed so we tried another across the street. Only slightly more expensive. Slightly meaning one Euro. However the meal was as good as the previous night. Not a proper survey but a 100% success rate there.
Another day we went on a train to Tende. Its called the Train de Mervilles and it follows the old Salt route over the mountains to italy. The Train goes further into Cuneo but was too far for one day trip. In Tende we eat outside with rolls and cakes from the local shop. More to follow.

Lisbon 2007

Was in Lisbon for the second time last week. December is a great time to go there as its still quite warm there especially compared to Dublin. Stayed in a small city centre Hotel right in the very centre of all the shops and cafes. Compared to Dublin, Lisbon foe me has much more to offer. Lisbon has retained more of its character, small shops and has less Multi National Shop brands. There was just one MacDonalds to be seen and we decided not to go in even for a cup of tea. Lisbon anyway has much better Cafes and Restaurants. Many Cafes date back to early 20th century and we visited several. One Cafe in Belem out on the coast is reached by an old fashioned Tram which races out along the tracks at break neck speed. The Pasteis de Belem opened in 1837 and today claims to serve up to 50,000 cakes a day. At night the Cafe is filled with young and old tucking into to custard tarts and coffee as well as the odd glass of wine. Many of the cafes in Lisbon serve mainly coffee and soft drinks and people use them like people in Ireland use Pubs to meet up. In the city centre of Dublin the streets sometimes resemble a war zone, the odd fight breaking out, shouting, drunks everywhere. Lisbon seemed more relaxed and family orientated.

Second photo is of a small family run restaurant we went to twice. Wine was less than 85 cent a glass Coffee 65 cents and a main meal was less than 6 Euro. Have heard some tourists complain of being charged for bread and olives which had been left on their tables. But at the prices we were charged those tourists either went to the wrong places or were too tight fisted.

October 2007

Louverval

Just back from France, We visited the Cambrai Memorial in Louverval. Our Great Uncle died fighting for the Allies in the first World War. Mum never met him. he died before she was born. Theres very few people actually buried at the Memorial, many bodies were never found or identified. The whole of Northern France is dotted with graveyards. The Cambrai Memorial is built on land given by locals in France in perpetuity to honour those who gave their lives to keep France free. It took a long while to actually find our great Uncles name on the Memorial. Still a very sad place after nearly 90 years since the battle that cost so many lives. The Commonwealth War Graves Commission certainly maintain the place in fabulous condition, the grass is cut almost daily and theres no dirt or rusty corners anywhere and looks as if the Memorial was only built recently.

Cambrai

In October We are going to France for a short holiday and most importantly to visit the memorial at Cambrai, Northern France. The Memorial commemorates over 7,000 troops who died there in November and December 1917. Jack Appleby was the Son of Joseph and Margaret Appleby of Rathangan, Baltinglass, Co. Wicklow, Ireland. Jack Appleby worked for the Post Office in the General Post Office, Dublin. Like thousands of of others he volunteered to fight against the German invasion of France. Aparently people were offered promotion in their job if they volunteered. Unfortunately very few returned and Jack was killed in action on December 2nd 1917. Jack was Mums Uncle and of course Mum never met him, but we have decided to go to France to visit the memorial nearly 90 years. I don't really know if any of the soldiers are actually buried at the Memorial. There are no marked graves, only a panel on the memorial which should contain his name. Jack was attached to the Post Office Rifles, London Regiment. Reading old books and also from watching TV documentaries most of the soldiers like Uncle Jack didn't have a chance, or much chance to return alive. The tactics at the time were to send the ground troops 'over the top' to face the enemy hidden in trenches. Most were simply 'mown down' by machine guns for the sake of a few yards or metres gained. Of course the higher up members of the Armies on both sides didn't get out of their bunkers, they probably were too busy eating lunch or having an afternoon brandy. 'Like lambs to the slaughter' was another phrase used at the time.
Anyhow I suppose thanks to the bravery of Uncle Jack and many thousands of other Irishmen, and all the millions of volunteers from England, Wales, Scotland and Europe and even as far afield as Australia and New Zealand, I am able to type this up today.
According to my Uncle Joe, at the time of Jacks death, his family was told that he was killed by a piece of shrapnel, but as his body was never found how could they have known that. Maybe they thought it was better to say that rather than give no information. The only picture I have is from his memorial card. The photo is very faint but I can just about see what looks like him in a Military uniform.
When I find the memorial I will take a few photos and also on return to Ireland will do the modern thing and mark the memorial in GoogleEarth and Wikimapia in case anyone browsing will one day find the location and want to read more about the memorial. The Commonwealth War Graves Commission also record everything on the Internet and will maintain the memorial in perpetuity.

Birthday preparations

Mum is 80 in September and is having a celebration on Saturday 8th of September for all her Friends and Relatives. Have been busy getting the garden fixed up in case the weather improves. Almost all Summer the weather has been terrible here. Neglected the back garden for a while and it went a bit mad. Over 50 years ago Dad decided to put in several large Rockeries, dozens of trees and bushes and thousands of rocks. Some rocks came from as far a field as Kilkenny and Killarney. Anyhow it has all got a bit too much over the years and I have had to reduce it a bit and dig out old trees etc. Hopefully ready now for the big day. Have some old garden photos somewhere. Must do a then and now shot sometime. I have still kept most of the shape of Dads unique garden but now hopefully less labour intensive.

Trip to Appenzell via St. Gallen

At the risk of boring everyone and I may be repeating myself, Swiss Railways do run like clockwork. Trains arrive early and if you miss one theres another train coming soon, or just get a train somewhere else and see where it brings you. Set off one of the mornings from Zurich to St. Gallen, to the North of the country. St. Gallen is another beautiful town or small city. Founded by an irish Monk incidentally. Arriving in St. Gallen we then went for something to eat in a Migros Cafe. Then rambled about and found the Trogenerbahn, otherwise known as the Orange Tram. Its actually almost a train that runs on the roadway. Unusually it climbs up steep gradients and giving spectacular views of the countryside. The old fashioned trams have been completely refurbished and look as they must have left the factory. Recently they have introduced new modern trams but they have retained some of the old fleet. Aparently there are plans to extend the line so the future of the line seems assured.
Another day we returned to St. Gallen and found another train station just beside the Trogenerbahn, which is the Terminus of the AppenzellBahn. This is another narrow gauge rack railway again retaining fairly historic trains but meticulously maintained and featuring 'roll down' windows for excellent views of the countryside. Departing the Station the train almost immediately starts a winding climb up an incredibly steep hill. Further on the line is more level and the train passes along the side of the road picking up passengers along the roadside. The driver uses the old fashioned whistle regularly to remind traffic the train is approaching. Eventually we reach Appenzell, another picture perfect town in a country of picture perfect towns. Possibly considered by some to be a tourist trap but Its still a town for the locals doing shopping and going about their daily lives. Anyhow to me it looked as if the town wasn't just a museum piece, certainly the cleanest town and most colourful as well. Just bought a few souvenirs there and the obligatory ice cream of course.
From Appenzell we got another train back to Gais and then almost immediately another train on a branch line to Altstatten. This was another rack railway line and again was most enjoyable as it rambled about the countryside at a slow pace and often down very steep hills. The line runs through fields where you can actually hold your hand out the window and touch trees and even cows who come right up to the train. Maybe thats why the cows in Switzerland always have a bell round their neck!
Eventually we reached the end of the line at Altstatten. here we had the only slight problem of the trip. The train station is about 2km from the nearest mainline Railway!. Of course a local Bus is provided and it duly arrived within 5 mins. Then at the next station we only had to wait a few minutes for another train.

If its Tuesday, it must be?

Before I forget I had to do a list of where we went on hols.
Wednesday- Arrived in Zurich, Tram trips around the city and something to eat.
Thursday- Zurich Cruise. Train trip to Lucerne, 2 Further cruises on the lake.
Friday- Chur to Arosa, Mountain trip. Then to St. Gallen, Went on Old Tram up to Trogen.
Saturday- Engelberg Mountain Railway. Also went to Meiringen on the Brunig Line.
Sunday-Romanshore and went to see the Rhein falls.
Monday- Interlakken, the Mecca for all Trainspotters.
Tuesday- St Gallen, and Appenzell region, also a quick visit to Leitchenstein.
Wednesday-Return to Dublin.

2 Photos of Mum enjoying herself.

Swiss Railway Holidays I

Just returned from a week of travel all over the Northern and Eastern sides of Switzerland. We stayed ina bed and Breakfast in Zurich. Located on a few minutes by Zurich Tram to the City Centre and main railway station. Didn't actually stay much in Zurich but used it as a base for further travels. On the first morning we went on a Boat on the lake and had a nice cruise for a couple of hours, then got a train to Lucerne and another cruise. Unlike Ireland, Switzerland has a proper integrated Transport system and quite often you can get off a train and a boat, bus and another train is waiting for you to continue your journey. Years ago talking to one of my Dads friend, Dave he told me when in other countries railways were being closed down, the swiss people voted to keep them open. In Ireland the money was never put in to the transport system and the authorities couldn't wait to close down as many lines as possible. Switzerland still has more lines than any other country in Europe despite its small land mass.
More ramblings to follow.